Portret van een staande vrouw met onderrok van fluweel en bont by Leon Joliot

Portret van een staande vrouw met onderrok van fluweel en bont 1874 - 1900

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photography, gelatin-silver-print

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portrait

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16_19th-century

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pictorialism

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photography

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historical photography

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gelatin-silver-print

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19th century

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genre-painting

Dimensions: height 180 mm, width 91 mm

Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain

Editor: We’re looking at an albumen silver print called "Portret van een staande vrouw met onderrok van fluweel en bont," which translates to “Portrait of a standing woman with velvet and fur petticoat," created by Leon Joliot between 1874 and 1900. The formality of the portrait reminds me of old family photos; what strikes you first about it? Curator: The symbols are what resonate with me. Consider the velvet and fur: markers of status, protection, and warmth. These tactile materials evoke a sense of both luxury and the vulnerability of the sitter, especially contrasted with her rigid posture. She's poised, yes, but almost too much so. Do you think that controlled image of hers speaks to a particular cultural moment? Editor: Perhaps the expectation for women to be composed and elegant, despite whatever social constraints they faced? Curator: Precisely! And consider the placement of the plant. Greenery often signified prosperity and growth, reflecting aspirations, but here it looks almost caged. There’s a dichotomy at play: outward show versus a potential restriction or inner life. The averted gaze – where do you think her eyes are pointed and what does this mean? Editor: It's like she's looking towards the future, away from the formal constraints that you mentioned before. I like your reading of the plant, I hadn't considered that. Curator: Symbolism layers the image, doesn't it? And of course, those meanings shift and evolve, becoming part of our ongoing dialogue with history. What do you make of her hair arrangement and the subdued jewelry pieces in it? Are they saying something? Editor: Yes! Considering what you’ve pointed out, those hair accessories could mean she wanted to say something, yet, remained confined in the social image for women during those times. Curator: And so the portrait speaks, layer upon layer, of aspiration, constraint, and a potent negotiation with the world. The photo is a mirror to different historical periods that may remain confined even in present times. Thank you! Editor: Thanks, I learned a lot. I hadn’t noticed how loaded such a formal portrait could be with these visual cues.

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