Art - Goût - Beauté, Feuillets de l' élégance féminine, Novembre 1931, No. 135, 12e Année, p. 20 1931
drawing, print, paper
art-deco
drawing
figuration
paper
cityscape
dress
Dimensions height 315 mm, width 240 mm
Curator: Looking at this print from 1931, titled "Art - Goût - Beauté, Feuillets de l'élégance féminine", one is immediately struck by the sleek and almost staged arrangement of figures. Editor: Staged is right. It feels more like a blueprint for aspirational identities than a reflection of lived reality. These women are rendered as objects within a cityscape. Curator: I think it’s important to consider the material conditions of production here. As a print from a fashion magazine, this image was produced through specific technologies with an understanding of its eventual circulation, the consumption practices, and of course the targeted audience. Editor: Yes, let's not overlook who this magazine aimed to reach and influence: upper-class women navigating a rapidly changing social landscape, both responding to, and creating fashion. How might women of color have perceived these ideals? This image performs and perpetuates exclusion. Curator: What stands out for me is the conscious emphasis on streamlined forms – the architecture mirrored by the lines of the clothing – creating a synthesis between industry and couture. There's also a striking juxtaposition of flat planes against textured furs and fabrics. Editor: Those flat planes amplify the artifice. The scene feels flattened, airless. I see the potential for agency in how these women negotiate spaces, but there's an undeniable constraint here—the parameters dictated by wealth and idealized beauty standards of the period. Curator: The publication’s title "Art - Goût - Beauté" highlights the blurring lines between fine art and popular culture, which is exactly what this work does by using fashion illustration as a form of accessible design and mass production. Editor: Considering the social turmoil and economic disparities in that historical context, images such as this present a specific viewpoint which perpetuates a form of aesthetic escapism but might ignore more inclusive approaches. Curator: Right, yet this was created and distributed on an industrial scale as the avant-garde ideas about form and utility shaped popular notions. Editor: This visual encodes a dream life with restrictions. What appears effortless speaks to considerable effort and strategic self-presentation, reminding me that fashion operates within and against societal structures.
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