Shawl 1876 - 1899

This shawl was made by Anton Thum, from woven and embroidered wool, with silk fringes. The material is of course key to understanding the finished textile. Wool offers warmth and drape, and is pliant enough to take on elaborate decoration. The ground is covered with a pattern of tiny floral sprigs, while the border displays larger sprays of poppies and foliage. These motifs have been carefully embroidered onto the woven field. It’s worth emphasizing the sheer amount of time and labor involved in this process. This kind of textile was a luxury good, and the cost reflects both the preciousness of the materials, and the hours of skilled work required to bring it to life. We see the work of many hands, most of them anonymous. By considering the social dynamics of the process – the division of labor and the relative value placed on design versus execution – we can better understand the rich history woven into this textile.