Kate Wart, from the Actresses series (N203) issued by Wm. S. Kimball & Co. 1889

Curator: This is Kate Wart, from the Actresses series produced by Wm. S. Kimball & Co. in 1889. It’s a chromolithograph, printed to be inserted in cigarette packs. Editor: My first thought is the striking contrast—a tiny, almost frail image juxtaposed with this... assertive pose. The feathered headdress especially feels larger than life. Curator: Absolutely. These cards served a dual purpose. The company sought to circumvent Victorian era censorship, creating almost subversive pieces for mass consumption. Editor: Subversive indeed. It's fascinating to consider the role of performance and female representation within that social climate. We’re looking at a theatrical portrait designed to titillate within the restrictions placed on it. Curator: Right. Notice the casual pose and presentation with arms crossed in a deliberate way to give more form and shape while partially clad. Editor: Yes! And this wouldn't just be a portrait of Kate Wart. It is a presentation and active participation in crafting her image for commercial purposes. It puts me in mind of our contemporary obsessions with celebrity and branding. The mass produced photograph is still an interesting way to think about commodification. Curator: It highlights a unique tension between artistic representation and early marketing tactics. Also, it foreshadows our society’s engagement with visual culture. Editor: Looking at it today I'm really left considering what it would be like for Kate Wart to be hypervisible but with so little control of the image being propagated and consumed on a daily basis. Curator: Definitely provides so much space for discourse about female entertainers then and even now.