Le peignoir plisie (autre) 1860s

This photograph, "Le peignoir plisie (autre)," was created by Pierre-Louis Pierson sometime in the mid-19th century. Though it appears to be a simple portrait, it gives us a clear view into the fashion and craft of the time. The subject wears an elaborate, pleated white dress, likely made from cotton. Notice the sheer amount of fabric used, and the detailed pleating throughout. Pleating was a labor-intensive process, often done by hand, or with early machinery. The dressmaking trade, like many textile crafts, was divided along class lines; wealthy women had the leisure to commission such garments, while working-class women often toiled in the garment industry, producing them. The photograph itself also involves a degree of technical skill. Early photography required knowledge of chemistry and optics, and was itself a burgeoning industry. It is a clear indication of the complex relationship between labor, class, and consumption at this moment in history.