Belt (Yeemy Mambolmashet) c. 19th century

Curator: Allow me to introduce this striking Kuba belt, referred to as Yeemy Mambolmashet, crafted around the 19th century. It resides here at The Art Institute of Chicago and provides a fascinating window into Kuba craftsmanship. Editor: Wow. First impression? It shimmers. All those shells create this ethereal, almost liquid light. The geometric patterns in blue...it feels ancient, and somehow utterly modern at the same time. Curator: Precisely. The construction involves weaving and extensive use of textiles, combined with what appear to be cowrie shells and glass beads. The labour involved in sourcing, preparing and then weaving these materials into a decorative item is considerable. We can interpret the value placed on its maker, user and use through the object’s materials and method. Editor: You can almost feel the hours of dedicated craft in this piece! Makes me think, was this daily wear or something special occasion? Curator: Given its intricate design and materials, highly likely used for ceremonial or high status display rather than mundane wear. Shells held significant symbolic meaning and worth, tracing connections to wealth, status, maybe even spiritual protection. This intricate geometric motif—almost a woven knot—was perhaps an indicator of identity within the complex hierarchy of the Kuba people. Editor: A knot, tying the wearer to tradition, lineage. Makes you consider, too, what’s *not* seen. Who were these weavers, mostly women I'm guessing? Their lives, their stories embedded within. Curator: Kuba textiles served as currency, prestige goods, grave cloths. Looking closer at the process opens more layers of social meaning than formal iconographic meanings. It represents an intricate interplay of materials, labour and value systems woven together to create cultural expression. Editor: The weight of it, though! The texture must be wonderful. It speaks of tangible luxury. Imagine the feeling of that against the skin… Curator: Ultimately this “belt” as object is more than personal ornament; it is a record of artistic labor and cultural value carefully constructed within a distinct historical period. Editor: Beautifully stated! And as we walk away, the shells seem to almost whisper untold histories. Thank you for sharing this, what was once 'decoration', now lives as 'artwork'.