Water-lily textile 1883 - 1900

This water-lily textile was designed by Associated Artists, a collective founded in 1879 to create new opportunities for women in design. It’s made from silk, woven with a supplementary weft, the labor-intensive process of adding extra threads to create the pattern. Notice how this technique gives the design depth and texture, a kind of painterly effect reminiscent of Impressionist art. While the water-lily motif evokes a sense of tranquil nature, the textile's creation was embedded in a rapidly industrializing world. Silk production at the time was becoming increasingly mechanized, yet designs like this still relied on skilled hand-loom weavers. The Aesthetic Movement, to which Associated Artists belonged, aimed to elevate craft to the level of fine art. By focusing on the artistry of textiles, they challenged Victorian notions of appropriate work for women, while contributing to the development of modern design. This piece reminds us that even objects of beauty are products of labor, reflecting cultural values and social change.