Gazette du Bon Ton, 1914 - No. 1, Pl. I: L'Encens, Le Cinname et la Myrrhe / Robes du soir. 1914

Curator: Today, we are looking at a print titled, "L'Encens, Le Cinname et la Myrrhe / Robes du soir", or "Incense, Cinnamon and Myrrh, Evening dresses". It was made by Ludwik Strimpl in 1914 for the Gazette du Bon Ton. Editor: It's a vibrant and somewhat bizarre composition! The figures are stylized, almost flattened, and the color palette is unexpected. There's a deliberate lack of realism. Curator: Indeed. The publication it appeared in was a luxury magazine showcasing the latest in French fashion, and these illustrations played a crucial role in shaping perceptions of style and culture at the time. The exoticized depictions are very much in line with Orientalist trends that were common in Western visual culture. Editor: You can immediately recognize the influence of Art Nouveau in the sinuous lines, the decorative patterns, and the overall emphasis on aesthetics. But there’s also something slightly unsettling about it. Curator: I think that dissonance speaks to the complex relationship between fashion, colonialism, and representation. These figures are adorned in imagined, ‘oriental’ costumes, performing for a Western audience hungry for exoticism. What readings can we gather on staging and performativity here? Editor: Visually, there’s a strong interplay between the foreground and background. The patterns in the robes, for example, contrast nicely against the relatively plain sky. But they are almost battling for dominance within the frame! And the use of watercolor lends a certain softness and fluidity, further enhancing its decorative qualities. Curator: And that combination of soft rendering of medium and bold flat colour gives the scene an otherworldly feel, a visual representation of fantasy, desire, and power dynamics between the East and West at the brink of world war. Editor: I concur with the underlying current you describe, but on purely formal grounds, the layering and flattening is captivating and serves the scene nicely. The lack of perspective draws us in and almost forces the scene upon us. I really like the impact of the limited color range. Curator: This work is indicative of how art and fashion intersect with broader social narratives. Examining this piece helps us unravel these complex relations while expanding awareness of these cross sections. Editor: And considering just the design elements, this print is striking and memorable! Even now, its visual qualities are very relevant to today's ideas in contemporary design and fine arts practices.