Dress by Roberta Spicer

Dress c. 1937

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drawing, coloured-pencil

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drawing

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coloured-pencil

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historical fashion

Dimensions overall: 45.5 x 38.1 cm (17 15/16 x 15 in.)

Curator: The artwork before us is a drawing entitled "Dress," crafted circa 1937 by Roberta Spicer. It appears to be rendered in colored pencil. What's your immediate impression? Editor: My immediate impression is one of contained elegance. It evokes a sense of bygone modesty, almost stifling, yet there's also a fragility suggested by the medium and the muted palette. The way the skirt flares makes me think of confinement, like a bell jar. Curator: Indeed. The dress is positioned within a lineage of similar fashions, yet viewed through the lens of the late 1930s, the echoes of Victorian constriction become palpable. Spicer, of course, lived in a very different world, yet still reflected that sensibility. Editor: How interesting to view it like that, rather than simply dismissing it as old fashioned. The stripes and floral vines almost seem to compete for space, suggesting social tensions. This garment hints at how gendered power operated through prescribed behavior, performativity, and the language of adornment. Curator: Precisely! Consider how fashion magazines shaped perceptions of ideal womanhood, creating aspirations. This seemingly innocuous drawing served within those influential forces that shaped perceptions of beauty, social class and more, creating norms of conformity. What messages do you think "Dress" projects regarding societal standards and expectation for women's dress, appearance, and role? Editor: This pattern speaks so subtly to the ways expectations bind, or can simultaneously uplift. We can reflect, perhaps, upon whether anything has really changed. And as for that tiny black belt! A tight constriction, certainly visually striking. What is being constricted in the quest for this particular silhouette? And in what ways have images like this been used politically to enforce norms? Curator: I think it raises salient questions about how fashion drawings and depictions of garments operate in a cultural space. Ultimately it provides a window into both that era's artistic output, but also its value systems as perceived through art and public image, allowing a deeper, multi-layered understanding. Editor: For me, reflecting on its social context, it really serves as a potent reminder of our shared, and contested, history, highlighting the ways in which dress both embodies and influences societal expectations and norms surrounding gender, class and expression. It encourages me to push toward futures of inclusion and acceptance of difference.

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