Retarpe robe with detailed embroidery 18th-19th century
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This 18th-19th century robe, created by an anonymous artist, is a striking example of intricate textile art. The garment, housed in the Minneapolis Institute of Art, is made of cream-colored fabric with a remarkable amount of blue and light blue embroidery covering almost the entire surface. The design features geometric patterns, including squares, circles, and repeating "T" shapes, creating a visually captivating and complex motif. The garment is a testament to the skill and artistry of its unknown creator.
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Ainu people did not cultivate plants for textiles; instead, they harvested them in the wild. Retarpe robes are made from plain-weave nettle fiber, a durable, warm, and light-colored material that offered Ainu women a neutral backdrop for their intricate embroidery and appliqué. The Sakhalin Ainu, a distinct group of people from the Ainu of Hokkaido, produced retarpe robes like this one. Because of their proximity to China, the Sakhalin Ainu were in contact with the Chinese government dating from the 14th century. They exchanged fur for Chinese silk, which Sakhalin Ainu women incorporated into their robes, along with Chinese textile design patterns. Simple garments that lack an elaborate design on the back were more regularly used and not confined to formal occasions.
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