Jacket by Yao (Dao)

Jacket c. 20th century

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textile, cotton

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sculpture

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asian-art

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textile

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cotton

Dimensions 20 1/2 x 56 1/4 in. (52.07 x 142.88 cm)

Curator: Welcome. We’re standing before a garment from the Minneapolis Institute of Art's collection simply titled "Jacket," dating to around the 20th century. This piece, attributed to the Yao, also known as the Dao people, is a study in cotton textile artistry. Editor: It's immediately striking in its austere beauty. The deep indigo of the main fabric, juxtaposed with the vibrant red embroidery, speaks to a sophisticated understanding of visual harmony and structure. Curator: Indeed. It represents much more than simple utility. Consider the indigo dye – likely derived from locally cultivated plants through a process involving fermentation and careful layering. Each step connects the jacket to place and community. And then there is labor itself; hours, perhaps weeks, spent creating those elaborate borders and seams, with painstaking and meaningful human intervention, a dialogue, in fact. Editor: Precisely! Note how the embroidered patterns along the sleeves and down the front opening provide structure, almost a grid-like framework containing the indigo expanse. The limited palette forces us to consider the formal elements—line, color, and the texture of the cotton—as signifiers in themselves, elevating what could be just everyday dress into an iconic emblem. Curator: What about its role? Such jackets, made by women, for instance, serve practical needs for the wearer and represent visible symbols of cultural identity, family, or a particular time of life. Examining such clothes offers glimpses into gender roles, trade networks, and even the local availability of resources. The stitches and construction embody a record of skilled handcraft and a collective historical consciousness. Editor: It also invites contemplation on how seemingly simple designs resonate deeply in a world steeped in complexities of tradition and identity. This isn’t mere craft. It’s high art hidden in functional form, echoing abstract and geometrical language found throughout modern art. Curator: Exactly! Analyzing an object like this “Jacket” becomes a study in intertwined values and tangible stories, all meticulously hand-stitched into an article of everyday dress. Editor: I am moved. Considering all its formal features as culturally meaningful really helps unlock a story within these interwoven strands.

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