Chief Blanket (Third Phase) c. 1880

This textile, known as a "Chief Blanket (Third Phase)," was woven by a Navajo (Diné) artist. These blankets were originally worn by men as status symbols in the early to mid-19th century. The cultural context of this piece is deeply intertwined with the history of trade and cultural exchange in the Southwest. The design features horizontal bands and stepped triangles in the corners and center. This so-called “Third Phase” design emerged as weavers incorporated new patterns, influenced by Spanish and Mexican designs. The blanket embodies a complex intersection of tradition, adaptation, and cultural appropriation. As colonization intensified, Navajo weavers integrated new materials, like wool, and designs, responding to shifting markets while maintaining their cultural identity. These blankets are more than just textiles; they are woven histories, embodying the resilience, creativity, and adaptability of the Navajo people. They speak to the enduring power of art to preserve cultural memory and assert identity in the face of profound social and political change.