Journal des Dames et des Modes, editie Frankfurt 6 novembre 1808, Costume Parisien ( (45) 1808

Curator: Here at the Rijksmuseum, we have an interesting print to consider from 1808 entitled, "Journal des Dames et des Modes, editie Frankfurt 6 novembre 1808, Costume Parisien", seemingly taken from a fashion magazine of the time by Friedrich Ludwig Neubauer. What catches your eye? Editor: Well, immediately the repetition of the bonnets strikes me, all clustered around a central figure. It's like a constellation of headwear! Curator: Exactly, and each hat—or bonnet—functions as a symbol in its own right, reflecting aspirations and values. These weren't just adornments, they signaled social standing, taste, and adherence to the ever-shifting codes of feminine presentation within very specific contexts. We can also view these garments, along with the sitter’s clothing as symbolic of women's changing place in the early nineteenth century; after all, these textiles circulated both goods and ideas through empires and new political settlements during and following the Napoleonic era. Editor: Indeed. Each one offers such distinct visual cues. I see ribbons, feathers, lace… emblems of status, each carrying subtle emotional implications. Notice how each shape offers something almost like a caricature of identity; even her central, 'natural' look is styled and composed as any of these. Curator: Precisely! The semiotics of dress, in this moment of shifting social and political landscapes, cannot be overstated. I wonder, what do these different bonnet styles, seemingly designed for such radically different figures, really mean for this woman’s representation? Are they a guide, or rather a suggestion of freedom through change? Editor: A visual taxonomy of aspirations, perhaps? It seems she occupies all these roles, or none of them at all. It speaks to the transient nature of identity itself, mirrored in these fleeting trends. Curator: The charm and accessibility of such visual journals, rendered as print, belie complex forces. In the details we might find so many important discourses. Editor: Definitely; thinking about the symbolic weight imbued in the images displayed in early fashion magazines like this is a unique entry point into comprehending the fashion world’s potential to embody wider changes.