Clarinet, from the Musical Instruments series (N82) for Duke brand cigarettes 1888

Curator: This is "Clarinet, from the Musical Instruments series (N82) for Duke brand cigarettes," dating back to 1888. It’s a print, made using colored pencils, produced by W. Duke, Sons & Co. Editor: Well, isn't she charming? She looks like a candy cane came to life and decided to learn the clarinet. There’s a sweetness, a kind of frivolous joy about her. Curator: The piece comes from a series of collectible cards distributed with Duke cigarettes. It served as an advertisement, obviously, but also tapped into a late 19th-century vogue for collecting these cards which depicted actresses, sports figures, and in this instance, musical instruments. The series reflects the rising popularity of both tobacco consumption and the consumer culture surrounding it. Editor: I love how un-real she seems! That wasp waist! The determined little pursing of her lips around the clarinet's mouthpiece, all very…studied? Staged? Like she's acting at being a musician. Curator: The aesthetics definitely borrow from both the Art Nouveau and Japonisme movements, especially in the flattening of perspective and decorative patterning in her dress. These influences gave commercial art a veneer of sophistication, attracting a more discerning clientele. Editor: She looks more ready for a tea party than a symphony hall. But maybe that’s the point. The connection between glamour and lifestyle that the advertisement hopes we'll connect with Duke's Cigarettes. Curator: Precisely! It wasn't necessarily about the realities of playing a musical instrument but creating an aspirational image connected to pleasure, luxury and, well, "the good life," as marketed by W. Duke, Sons & Co., “The Largest Cigarette Manufacturers in the World!" Editor: I guess what resonates with me is the odd disconnect between her gentle portrait and that bold capitalist message bellowing from the bottom. It's the clash of high art ambition meeting a crass commercial goal. The art here to subtly endorse the tobacco, knowing full well the harm. Curator: Exactly! It reveals the complex social and economic dynamics that shaped the art and design of the period. It offers a glimpse into the relationship between industry, advertising, and art as the definition of what is deemed fine art, design and illustration becomes ever more distinct and important. Editor: What starts as an amusing little image unfolds into a richer story about a past era when industry promoted, through design, consumer desires for a certain lifestyle. I find that intriguing and useful to keep in mind.