Ulan, from the Occupations for Women series (N166) for Old Judge and Dogs Head Cigarettes 1887

This small chromolithograph, "Ulan", was produced by Goodwin & Company as part of the "Occupations for Women" series, promoting Old Judge and Dogs Head Cigarettes. Printed on paper, these cards were designed for mass consumption, capitalizing on the popularity of collecting and trading cards. Lithography allowed for the relatively quick, cheap reproduction of images, meaning that they could be widely distributed within cigarette packs. In this image, the choice of subject matter – a woman in a military uniform – speaks volumes. It reflects the changing roles of women in society, even as it commodifies and sexualizes them for a male audience. The smooth surface and vibrant colors are characteristic of chromolithography, achieved through layering multiple colors, resulting in a glossy finish, giving the card an attractive sheen. The amount of work involved in the design and printing process highlights the industrialization of leisure and the rise of consumer culture in the late 19th century. The card offers a glimpse into the social and economic landscape of the time, challenging traditional notions of art by blurring the lines between commercial advertising, and artistic expression.