Annie Summerville in Castilian Costume of Spain, from the set Actors and Actresses, First Series (N70) for Duke brand cigarettes 1888 - 1889

Curator: This colored pencil drawing is titled "Annie Summerville in Castilian Costume of Spain" and it dates to between 1888 and 1889. The profile of W. Duke, Sons & Co. produced it as part of the "Actors and Actresses, First Series" for Duke brand cigarettes. Editor: I'm struck by the vividness of the colours, despite the age. There's a playful energy to the composition that immediately draws the eye, specifically that broad-brimmed hat adorned with what looks like berries. Curator: Exactly. This image belongs to a series, circulated within tobacco products, which historically contributed to both popularizing and commodifying idealized notions of identity, linking actress Annie Summerville to a romanticised vision of Spain. Editor: Tell me more. How do the structural components guide such readings? The contrasting diagonal lines of her headscarf direct attention toward the centre. Curator: Those lines around her face could symbolize the tight constraints on women. Her elaborate attire isn’t merely ornamental but suggestive of the theatrical presentation of the female body during the period, especially since we have to consider the socio-political role of actresses, and women in performance. Editor: I suppose when seen through the lens of semiotics, you begin to decode these signifiers as cultural imprints, more so than simply a costume. Her look directs the viewer through texture, shape and colour. Curator: Yes, and while it’s only a commercial drawing on paper, we cannot remove the larger systems of representation at play when we reflect on gender, performance, and commercialism of the late 19th century. Editor: Interesting, it really reveals how a seemingly simple portrait offers an expansive reflection on these topics and, indeed, material culture. Curator: Indeed. This artwork gives a nuanced intersectional insight of the complex power dynamics in representations, in visual culture.