The Chinchilla Collar c. 1908

Curator: Joan González’s “The Chinchilla Collar,” currently held in the Tate Collections, presents a seated woman in charcoal, her extravagant collar drawing immediate attention. Editor: She seems melancholic, almost burdened by that enormous collar. There's a stark contrast between the lightness of her dress and the weight of the shadows surrounding her. Curator: González was working during a time of intense social change, and his depictions of women often explored their roles and identities within that shifting landscape. Editor: I'm struck by the performativity of it all. The collar, the hat, the posture—it speaks to the societal expectations placed upon women, particularly within the upper classes, and how they were essentially costumed for public consumption. Curator: It makes you wonder about the woman's agency. Is she embracing this role, or is she trapped by it? González doesn't provide easy answers, which I find compelling. Editor: Agreed. It's less a portrait, more a commentary on the performance of femininity in the early 20th century. A potent observation.