Camisole by Hmong

Camisole c. 20th century

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fibre-art, textile, cotton

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fibre-art

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asian-art

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textile

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geometric pattern

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geometric

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cotton

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decorative-art

Dimensions 13 1/4 x 10 1/2 in. (33.66 x 26.67 cm)

Curator: Let’s consider this compelling piece, a “Camisole” of Hmong origin, dating from the 20th century. You'll find it here at the Minneapolis Institute of Art. It features cotton and textile artistry. Editor: Oh, my first thought is: vibrant maze! It's a garden, seen from above, but stitched with fierce geometric determination. Curator: A very perceptive initial read. I’m intrigued by your immediate metaphor. We can explore it with structuralist techniques that will expose the fundamental ordering principles inherent to textile's design: note the recursive symmetry, especially. Editor: Ordering principles? For sure, there's logic, yet there’s also an element of whimsy, no? See the corner isn't squared. It suggests a gentle surrender to something irregular, untamed...a bit of creative rebellion perhaps? It feels… human. Curator: A productive tension is struck between rigorous geometric structure and... deviation. These small squares that contain the gem-like diamonds of varying colours. I read this to have potential symbolic weight: what is their function in this work? Editor: Weight. Indeed. Like memories encased, precious and carefully guarded within the pattern's repeating rhythm. You think each small choice--each color, its placement-- holds significance? It's amazing. Like holding whispers of the people from far away! Curator: Indeed. Considering Hmong cultural tradition of textile work--in particularly for women, this kind of artistic design encodes memory and identity into material form, we can see the composition to work, semiotically, as an embodiment of cultural and gendered value Editor: So this seemingly simple object then is incredibly complex... layered with meaning, meticulously sewn. The skill is superb! This "Camisole" could warm both body and soul with such dedication woven through each stitch! I want to hold it! Curator: The very materials testify to cultural values translated across time and space. Approaching it structurally helps us to understand the way material culture transmits ideas and preserves what is deemed socially important in any given society. Editor: Thinking about it has opened my senses in amazing new ways. I appreciate those final geometric assertions and also your perspective of understanding textiles! Thank you!

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