Bag Possibly 1476 - 1532

Curator: The Art Institute of Chicago is home to a fascinating textile fragment dating from possibly 1476 to 1532, known simply as “Bag” and attributed to the Inca culture. What are your initial thoughts on this piece? Editor: Visually, the rhythmic patterns and subtle tonal variations create a rather subdued yet intricate effect. It strikes me as possessing both functional and symbolic weight; almost austere. Curator: Precisely. These textiles held significant societal roles. The level of skill demonstrated in this weaving pointed to the person’s social standing and could, also, determine whether a woman was able to marry. Each woven piece was incredibly symbolic for their society. Editor: That’s fascinating! Knowing that elevates the viewing experience, doesn’t it? One could look at it as a representation of woven identity in line with intersectional and social expectations. The materials used speak to this intersection too - available dyes from different materials create colors with individual meanings and stories behind their presence. Curator: Definitely. When you look at extant examples of textiles and garments during this time, certain materials might indicate if the wearer was of royal descent; the artistry put into the work, the skill needed for the craft, and what materials were implemented are telling. Its survival also begs questions. How was this particular "Bag" preserved through the centuries, and what journeys did it undertake to eventually reside here? Was it seized or voluntarily surrendered during colonial incursions, forcing a cultural reckoning onto the colonizers? Editor: It's sobering to consider that an object seemingly so simple can carry so much historical complexity. The survival of the object really underscores that textile production was one form of powerful social action in their society. Curator: Indeed. “Bag” encapsulates an intricate web of Inca society, craftsmanship, and possibly, even resistance and survival. Editor: Absolutely. It prompts us to reconsider art beyond just the aesthetic, delving into art as a conduit for complex socio-historical dialogues.