Untitled (woman posing in dance costume with flame-like headdress) after 1940

Paul Gittings took this photograph of a woman in dance costume, likely in the United States, though the exact date is unknown. Gittings was known for society portraits, and this image shares some qualities of that genre, but the theatrical costume suggests a different setting. The woman’s costume is a fascinating mix of cultural references. The flame-like headdress and stylized armbands evoke an orientalist fantasy of the East, popular in early 20th century theater and dance. But the bare midriff and overall silhouette also hint at the burgeoning styles of the Jazz Age. What was the relationship between high society portraiture and popular entertainments like theater? How did the social elite imagine themselves in relation to other cultures? To answer these questions, we can consult theater programs, costume design archives, and period magazines to understand the cultural milieu that produced this captivating image.