Costume de Yacht 1914

Curator: This lithograph from 1914 is titled "Costume de Yacht" by George Barbier, and it’s such an evocative image. Editor: You know, it instantly makes me think of Wes Anderson films. There’s something so stylised and deliberately composed about it. That crispness of colour against the, dare I say it, slightly absurd seriousness of the figure. Curator: I think you're picking up on its art nouveau aesthetic. This period saw rapid changes in technology, industrialization, but also emerging women’s rights—an inherent paradox when we examine visual representation and the commodification of images of women in print. Barbier's work existed in magazines like Journal des Dames et des Modes, catering to an elite female readership. Editor: Magazines, right! It screams ‘advertisement’ – an advert for a luxurious lifestyle, for leisure…even though I suppose ‘yachting’ wasn't particularly safe at that time. I like the way her entire body almost blends into the sailing boat. Curator: The nautical theme plays on tropes, too. This idea of adventure and exploration was historically limited by gender. The figure adopts a typically masculine posture by standing firmly and looking through a telescope. Yet her dress restricts movement, literally and figuratively grounding her vision. It evokes wider questions about women’s roles during the era. Were they permitted to pursue active voyages? Editor: Absolutely. There's definitely something performative about this. A theatre of wealth, if you like. It all seems so meticulously rendered, the lines of her outfit – that brilliant skirt! - mirrored by those rope details behind her. You feel the artist delighting in details: look at her hairstyle, for instance. Curator: That's very Barbier! These portraits capture his commentary on fashion. He’s not only showing garments, he’s making larger points about visibility, about aspiration, and yes, performance. I’m struck how this echoes right up to contemporary fashion editorials even now. Editor: It's definitely making me think twice about the image next time I’m tempted by Vogue! Curator: Indeed, me too! A stylish reminder of history and power shaping what we wear – and what we see.