Card Number 343, Mlle. Zephiry, from the Actors and Actresses series (N145-5) issued by Duke Sons & Co. to promote Cameo Cigarettes by W. Duke, Sons & Co.

Card Number 343, Mlle. Zephiry, from the Actors and Actresses series (N145-5) issued by Duke Sons & Co. to promote Cameo Cigarettes 1880s

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drawing, print, photography

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portrait

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drawing

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print

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photography

Dimensions Sheet: 2 11/16 × 1 3/8 in. (6.8 × 3.5 cm)

Editor: This is Card Number 343, Mlle. Zephiry, from the Actors and Actresses series, a promotional card for Cameo Cigarettes by Duke Sons & Co. from the 1880s, currently at the Met. It's striking how much detail they packed into such a small card. The layers of her skirt especially create visual interest. What formal elements do you find most compelling? Curator: Observe how the photographer contrasts the rigid vertical stripes of the subject's skirt against the soft, organic forms in the backdrop. This tension is further heightened by the composition itself. The model, Mlle. Zephiry, occupies the right side of the frame, countered by the mass of foliage on the left, resulting in dynamic equilibrium. Editor: It's like the formal wear, being rigid, is placed among an artificial nature, quite staged. Is the backdrop photograph or drawn? Curator: Note how the tonal values of the backdrop, particularly the blurred foliage, lack crisp definition. This lack of resolution is a deliberate effect, a softening, that allows the sharper lines of the subject to assume focal primacy. I'd argue that this conscious arrangement reinforces the artifice inherent to studio portraiture, specifically in commercial prints. Is there anything you notice in her attire that could suggest performative qualities? Editor: Her elaborate costume stands out, even her stance looks rather unnatural. I now see that she appears less as a person and more as a crafted image. Thank you. Curator: And thank you, for pointing out the interplay between constructed and authentic, prompting us to consider the nuances of representation.

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