Untitled (Portrait of Woman with Hat) 1850 - 1899

Editor: Here we have an untitled portrait of a woman with a hat, likely taken sometime between 1850 and 1899. The photograph, an example of Pictorialism, is housed here at the Art Institute of Chicago. What strikes me most is her gaze; she looks directly at the viewer, and appears confident, perhaps even challenging. What do you see in this piece? Curator: Absolutely, and I’d argue we can read that gaze as a conscious assertion of self at a time when women's identities were heavily policed and prescribed. Consider the social constraints of the late 19th century – expectations surrounding domesticity and subservience. This portrait, even within the conventions of formal portraiture, offers a subversive counter-narrative. How does her attire complicate the picture, so to speak? Editor: Well, her clothing isn't overly elaborate, but the tailored jacket and the hat give a somewhat masculine impression... a purposeful crossing of gender lines? Curator: Precisely! This sartorial choice, especially when coupled with that direct gaze, suggests a deliberate disruption of conventional femininity. This could be read in relation to emergent feminist movements, with women seeking autonomy in dress, work, and thought. Is she pushing back against a patriarchal framework simply by existing in this way? Editor: I see. So, this photograph, beyond being just a portrait, becomes a statement? Curator: Yes! This is an entry point into thinking about the multifaceted role of women during that era, going against archetypes, with unique perspectives. Editor: I hadn't considered the ways clothing and expression can embody resistance, offering social and political insights. Thank you. Curator: Of course! Looking at historical artwork through an intersectional lens offers invaluable insights into gender, identity and historical narratives.