Portret van een onbekende vrouw in klederdracht by P. Vlaanderen & C. van der Aa

Portret van een onbekende vrouw in klederdracht 1878 - 1884

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photography

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portrait

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studio photography

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still-life-photography

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impressionism

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photography

Dimensions height 112 mm, width 68 mm, depth 21 mm

Curator: Today we are looking at an early photographic portrait, simply titled “Portret van een onbekende vrouw in klederdracht," dating from sometime between 1878 and 1884, made by P. Vlaanderen & C. van der Aa. Editor: The sepia tones give it an antique and almost severe quality, don’t they? It reminds me of early ethnographic studies—precise yet oddly distant. Curator: The composition is certainly meticulous. The oval vignette centers our focus precisely on the sitter’s face and the details of her traditional clothing. The bow at the neck creates a focal point just beneath the face. Notice how the white of the headpiece sharply contrasts against her dark dress, further emphasizing the facial structure. Editor: And I wonder about that dress! Its heavy, buttoned form must have been made with dense cloth—what kind of labor went into constructing something like this? And the headpiece also suggests craftsmanship with purpose, possibly marking a distinct stage of womanhood within her community. The materiality speaks volumes. Curator: Precisely. One can analyze her pose—so formal, so contained—within the conventions of 19th-century portraiture and explore what this rigidity communicates to a modern audience. Her gaze, direct yet reserved, hints at the complex relationship between the subject and the photographer’s intentions. It’s about capturing status and an idea. Editor: Well, and let's consider what it was to be captured like this. I bet the studio smelled of chemicals and darkroom dust. Each piece of clothing and adornment symbolizes something real about labor, belonging, identity, all tied into creating a staged object for preservation and distribution. Who had access to such technology and what social scripts are encoded there? Curator: An incisive viewpoint—it underlines the inherent layers within even the most seemingly straightforward compositions. Editor: Thank you. Examining material culture as active signifiers of life is something that I like to focus on. Curator: Which I hope that all our listeners will adopt within their personal viewing practice.

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