Design for a lady's dress 1912

Léon Bakst rendered this costume design with watercolor and graphite on paper. It shows how closely drawing and the decorative arts were intertwined in the early 20th century. Bakst worked for the Ballets Russes, and his designs were celebrated for their exoticism, inspired by global sources. In this design, you see the convergence of the modernist interest in so-called ‘primitive’ art and an elite culture of conspicuous consumption. Consider the time and labor involved in producing such an elaborate garment. The spotted textiles alone may have taken hours to produce. The dress is ornamented with jewels and embroidery. These elements were undoubtedly expensive, embodying a lifestyle of luxury. However, Bakst’s rendering also makes clear the connection between the design on paper and the final constructed garment. He was fluent in both modes of production. By bringing these skills together, Bakst challenged traditional distinctions between fine art and craft.