Recueil de la diversité des habits (A Collection of the Various Styles of Clothing) 1562

François Desprez created this woodcut print, "A Collection of the Various Styles of Clothing," sometime in the 16th century. It’s part of a series cataloging European dress. But it's not just about fashion; it reflects the political and social dynamics of the time. Made in France, this image was created during a period of intense cultural exchange and political tension between France and Spain. The detailed depiction of the Spaniard's clothing speaks to a fascination with foreign cultures, but also asserts cultural difference. The print reveals how clothing becomes a marker of national identity, useful in marking out a sense of "us" and "them". The series to which it belongs would have been commissioned in support of the French court, and it may have been informed by diplomatic or military intelligence. To understand this image better, we can delve into period costume books, political pamphlets, and diplomatic records. These resources shed light on the social conditions that shaped its production and reception, revealing the complex interplay between art, power, and identity in early modern Europe.