Chest Cover c. early 20th century

mixed-media, fibre-art, silk, weaving, textile, cotton

pattern-and-decoration

mixed-media

fibre-art

silk

weaving

textile

geometric

cotton

Curator: Before us, we have a captivating textile work identified as a "Chest Cover," dating back to the early 20th century. It's an anonymous piece, employing a vibrant mix of materials—silk, cotton, and likely other fibers, showcasing sophisticated weaving techniques. Editor: It hits you immediately, doesn’t it? The high-keyed color and geometric vibrancy are intoxicating; it makes me feel joyful, maybe a little giddy! It’s an impressive display of textile artistry. Curator: The formal composition hinges on layered geometries. Note the zigzagging borders at the top and bottom sandwiching a lattice of large diamonds centrally; inside we can see blocks filled with even smaller colorful tessellations. The composition's adherence to these elements of geometric abstraction seems deliberately constructed. Editor: Right, and it's not *just* geometric, is it? Each repeated motif, from the zigzags to the diamond grid, likely held specific cultural meaning. Textiles like this one often served as visual languages, communicating status, tribal affiliation, or even serving as protection in daily life. The repetition itself reinforces a sense of continuity and tradition. Curator: I agree that there may very well be levels of meaning here, but to start, I see the consistent repetition as part of the work's inherent beauty— the colors, their placement, and their repetition create structure, tension and above all else beauty! Look at the way these bright colors work against the burgundy foundation of the cotton threads: each one sets off and complements the others, heightening the contrast of color, a masterful interplay of materials in service of visual energy. Editor: And there is also something fundamentally symbolic to consider in that energy. The bright colors might represent prosperity and happiness. The fact that is serves as a chest cover would hint at the treasures held, not just monetary value, but memories. Curator: Treasures both tangible and abstract then. All things considered, the piece presents a highly ordered but undeniably vibrant display of repeating colors, woven elements, and geometry. The Chest Cover becomes more than functional, instead entering the realm of powerful abstract symbolism. Editor: I agree—studying the piece has opened me up to its complexity. Curator: And I can see how such vibrant execution might invite, even demand, an exploration into the cultural meaning!

Comments

minneapolisinstituteofart about 1 year ago

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As in many Islamic countries, decorative fabrics were highly valued and used extensively in Moroccan households. Many regional styles developed that resulted in the creation of distinctive interiors. The central coastal cities of Rabat and Sale were noted for their dramatic, richly embroidered door curtains that separated public and private spaces in the home. That same style of embroidery was also used for smaller items, such as the chest cover we see here. This could have been a dowry piece or a commissioned embroidery intended possibly for a wedding gift. Textiles such as this tell us many things about the society in which they were made. The fine, machine-made cotton ground fabric and silk embroidery thread were both imported, which implies extensive trade connections with Europe as well as other Islamic countries. The complexity of the pattern suggests the participation of a designer and the sophistication of the embroidery and knotted fringe indicates the participation of two additional trained specialists.