Walking dress 1883 - 1887

Curator: I must say, the immediate impression this Walking Dress makes is rather arresting. All those bold stripes... it’s a far cry from the delicate floral patterns one might expect from the period. Editor: This textile, attributed to the House of Worth, presents us with an artifact of great societal import, produced between 1883 and 1887. Consider, if you will, the evolving role of women in the late 19th century – a burgeoning desire for autonomy expressed even through the clothing they chose. Curator: Precisely! Those stripes, alternating between navy and cream, feel almost assertive, even a bit rebellious. The line suggests a forward momentum. What could stripes mean during that period? What did they represent against, say, floral? Editor: Stripes historically were associated with those on the margins—prisoners, performers, those deemed 'other.' To see them integrated into high fashion, signifies a shifting social landscape, a democratization, perhaps. Here, though, they're controlled, regimented. The narrow stripes, tailored jacket, the high collar... all convey constraint alongside that boldness. Curator: The dress indeed is very restrained and constricting from the neck down to the stomach, with the jacket almost working like a cage. But below that it flows in freedom! Then notice the vertical embellishments along the hem! Editor: Which almost serve to 'ground' the outfit, connecting it back to established norms, creating visual harmony while stopping the eye. The costume becomes a battleground of tradition and modernity. And that cream-colored lace at the collar seems like a concession, a gentle softening of the overall effect. What are your views? Curator: I find the collar works like an ascot. And ascots are worn by men. Interesting. Overall, I view the "Walking Dress" as an exquisite symbol of both female empowerment and restriction, neatly interwoven. The garment subtly echoes larger conversations regarding female roles in the late 19th century. It would not shock me that stripes like this walking dress walked for all women during its era. Editor: An astute point, considering Worth's status as the arbiter of Parisian fashion. Thanks, the piece leaves me with so much to consider on our ever shifting societal norms.