Undershirt c. early 20th century

Curator: Here at the Minneapolis Institute of Art, we have this piece, an early 20th-century undershirt, made of cotton and possibly silk. What are your first thoughts? Editor: My immediate impression is of fragility and vulnerability. The material looks incredibly sheer, almost ghostly. It’s deceptively simple, in a way, yet strangely haunting. Curator: It's interesting that you say "haunting," because for many at the time, items of clothing like this one carried intimate connections to their wearer. The layers we choose—and those, perhaps, not of our own choosing—have much to say about gender, class, and personal narrative. Consider the societal expectations tied to this type of garment and who would wear it and why. Editor: The structure is also worth noting: the tight gathering of fabric throughout the garment. And even the cuffs—their pristine appearance is jarring juxtaposed with the distressed condition of the rest of the shirt. The artist seems to be playing with different textural planes. Curator: That’s an astute observation. There’s certainly an emphasis on the interplay of surface and form. And given its existence within this particular historical moment, we also see how fashion and utility function, highlighting issues such as labor practices and the intimate economy of textile production during the early 20th century. The piece reveals a fascinating intersection of material culture and social history. Editor: The near monochromatic palette lends a subtle elegance to the overall design as well. Notice how light interacts with each crease in the fabric and consider the way in which different shades add to the object’s dynamic appearance, highlighting both delicacy and strength. Curator: Precisely. It invites us to think more expansively about textiles as historical artifacts and powerful cultural signifiers. What was concealed here in service of public display? What choices did wearers have about these kinds of choices? Editor: Agreed. There’s a beautiful tension between the fragility and enduring presence. Curator: An everyday garment becomes something much more. Thank you.