print, engraving
portrait
pen illustration
old engraving style
figuration
genre-painting
history-painting
dress
engraving
Dimensions: height 154 mm, width 207 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Curator: "Ancient Dutch Dresses," an engraving by Charles Grignion I, made sometime between 1760 and 1770. It's part of the Rijksmuseum's collection. Editor: Hmm, austere! All those grey lines giving an impression of texture and propriety. But also oddly charming with those very precisely etched trees framing each figure. Curator: Precisely etched, yes. This print presents three figures, identified below as "a Physician," "a Merchants Wife" and "a Nobleman," showcasing fashion from different eras, with the first two said to be from 1640, while the third, to the right, is specified from 1588. Notice how the choice of material, engraving, allows for reproducibility and distribution, serving potentially both an informative and commercial purpose. Editor: An inventory of class then? It makes me wonder who got to access and consume images like these. Were they a sort of paper doll for aspirational merchants wives, or meant to educate the budding noble class about its roots, so to speak? There is an almost satirical undercurrent; look at the physician pointing as if towards some plague-ridden area while decked out in layers and layers. Curator: The attention to detail in representing textiles – the ruffs, the sleeves, the elaborate pleating – indicates that materiality itself held a prominent place. The image really speaks to the production of status and identity in a specific historical and social context. Editor: You're right, I can almost feel the stiff brocade, and the rough wool. Still, seeing these figures statically posed reminds me how deeply clothes affect gesture. All the social expectation knitted into those threads. I bet their everyday was less stiff than this plate implies, though! One can still have character regardless. Curator: Indeed! By examining the materials, we gain insights into the modes of production and consumption that were crucial in shaping societal norms and values of that time. And the figures may seem posed to us, but perhaps they presented themselves to others daily in precisely this manner. Editor: True, we're projecting from centuries in the future after all. Anyway, next time I’m costume shopping I'm calling you. Your analysis made me appreciate how each stitch holds history!
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