Mlle. Elisa Saracco, from the Actresses series (N245) issued by Kinney Brothers to promote Sweet Caporal Cigarettes 1890

Curator: This photograph is part of a larger series of actress portraits issued around 1890 by Kinney Brothers, a tobacco company marketing Sweet Caporal Cigarettes. This particular one is titled "Mlle. Elisa Saracco." Editor: It's certainly a product of its time. What immediately strikes me is the blatant commodification of the female body. She's positioned more as an object of desire to sell cigarettes, than as an actress with any agency. Curator: These trade cards served a dual purpose: advertising and collectible. They were inserted into cigarette packs, encouraging repeat purchases and brand loyalty. The actresses, popular performers of the day, lent their image to the product. And, let's note, the trade card emerged amidst rising consumerism, which encouraged visual literacy, so the rise in celebrity imagery fed into larger forces. Editor: Precisely. These images shaped societal perceptions of women. The cards idealized and sexualized the actresses, placing them within a patriarchal gaze. In that costume, the short skirt, the pose… this image is propagating particular types of attractiveness, whiteness and ability at the expense of others, creating normative and unattainable standards. Curator: While I agree it's essential to examine it through that lens, consider the agency these women may have had within the context of the time. Saracco was a recognized actress; association with a successful brand may have heightened her public profile. Actresses, like athletes, writers, politicians, and singers were the faces of mass marketing and national brands. Editor: Sure, it’s possible these actresses exercised some control, but consider the pervasive power structures. It all occurred in the shadow of the male-dominated entertainment industry. We should acknowledge both the opportunities and limitations that existed for women in the profession. Also, it's important to remember the larger history of how tobacco advertising specifically targeted women. Curator: Absolutely. The social and cultural context is crucial to fully appreciate this artwork, but it’s useful to study its marketing success and impact on celebrity endorsement within its era. Editor: Exactly! And it makes you think about who are celebrities now, and how have image, race and gender changed in advertising ever since? Curator: It has been such an honor reflecting on Mlle. Elisa Saracco and her image to represent tobacco products and actresses, alike. Editor: And really important to unpack the image of her in relation to societal perception of female gendered beauty at the turn of the century and today!