Petit Courrier des Dames, 20 mai 1828, No. 555 : Chapeau de paille d'Italie... 1828
drawing, lithograph, print
portrait
drawing
lithograph
figuration
romanticism
dress
Dimensions height 201 mm, width 113 mm
Curator: Isn't this lithograph charming? It's a fashion plate titled "Petit Courrier des Dames," dated 1828. These were the blogs of their day, weren't they? This particular example comes to us from an anonymous artist, held in the collection of the Rijksmuseum. Editor: My first thought? Frothy. All that pastel blue and ruffled trim, like spun sugar about to melt. A confection of status. Curator: Exactly! These images circulated widely, dictating trends, demonstrating aspiration, and reflecting societal hierarchies. Notice how the focus isn’t just on the dress, but also the hat, specified as Italian straw adorned with bird of paradise plumes. These details signify wealth and global connections. Editor: The hat is everything, isn't it? Perched precariously with those rebellious feathers, it's a statement piece screaming "look at me!" You almost expect a wry smile playing on her lips. But then, the dress...it feels almost too much. That rope-like boa…is it tulle? It sort of smothers the elegance it's meant to convey. Curator: The inscription clarifies it is tulle. The excess speaks volumes about Romantic-era sensibilities; a move toward sentimentality and extravagance, especially among the upper classes, even while reflecting older courtly fashions. These prints provided a shared visual language that also codified who was in and who was irrevocably out. Editor: It’s strange though, isn't it? Even now, that silhouette—the cinched waist, the full skirt—it still resonates. The specifics have faded, but the yearning for an ideal, or to express one's identity, stays constant. Even the printmaking medium mirrors how trends evolve. Curator: A sharp point, given the medium allowed the spread of such images; and those aesthetics could be quite potent. These small lithographs served as blueprints, prescribing proper femininity but also inciting, and maybe inspiring the women, too. Editor: It's quite insightful, and though fashion trends change as social climates evolve, I cannot deny that this small lithograph still speaks to broader notions about beauty, status, and performance. Curator: Agreed. An artwork that embodies societal tensions, and desires which will transcend time.
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