Portret van Russia Agatha Dijkshoorn 1880 - 1883

Editor: This is "Portrait of Russia Agatha Dijkshoorn," a albumen print photograph taken sometime between 1880 and 1883 by Jan Goedeljee. I'm struck by the formality of the portrait, but also the way the subject's dress almost obscures her figure. What are your thoughts about this piece? Curator: As a materialist, my interest is piqued by the albumen print itself. Consider the process: egg whites coating paper, reacting to light. Photography was already impacting portrait painting, creating more affordable options. The lace adorning her dress and high collar speaks volumes about the meticulous labor involved in creating and maintaining fashionable garments of the time. Think of the class structures embedded in those acts of creation and consumption. How does understanding this inform your reading of the portrait? Editor: I guess I hadn't thought of the actual labor involved. It feels so separate from the image itself, but those clothes didn't appear out of thin air. How accessible would this type of photography have been? Curator: Initially, it was more accessible to the middle class, but became widespread with technical improvements in the following decades. Goedeljee even imprinted their name, advertising their services to further feed a demand. This wasn't just about art, it was also about the burgeoning commodification of self-image, a nascent industry. Editor: It's interesting to consider how much labor and production is involved in this 'simple' photograph. It gives me a new appreciation for the social and material context of art. Curator: Precisely! Analyzing these images through materiality reminds us to ask not just *what* is represented, but *how* it was made, by whom, and for whom.