Lillian Elmore, from the Actors and Actresses series (N171) for Gypsy Queen Cigarettes 1886 - 1890

This photograph of Lillian Elmore comes to us from the Actors and Actresses series (N171) for Gypsy Queen Cigarettes. It was made by Goodwin & Company sometime between 1850 and 1950. The first thing to notice here is the material itself: not a pigment on canvas or even ink on paper, but a chemical compound processed on a card stock. Photography democratized image-making, but also industrialized it. This particular photograph was part of a larger system of capitalist exchange, used as a promotional tool in the tobacco industry. It’s a portrait, but also a collectible. We might also consider the labor behind the scenes. The image has been heavily retouched, especially if you look closely at the background. This may have been skilled work, but it was also routine. It is a reminder that no matter how artistic a photograph may appear, it is always the product of industrial processes and economic imperatives.