Smoking Cap by Alvin Shiren

Smoking Cap 1935 - 1942

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drawing, textile, pencil

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drawing

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textile

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oil painting

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pencil

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orientalism

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academic-art

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watercolor

Dimensions overall: 32.3 x 29.1 cm (12 11/16 x 11 7/16 in.)

Curator: Here we have Alvin Shiren's "Smoking Cap," a textile piece created sometime between 1935 and 1942. Editor: Well, my first impression is sumptuousness. The rich, deep reds, the elaborate embroidery... it all speaks of a specific cultural moment. There's definitely a feeling of opulence being conveyed here. Curator: Indeed. These caps became popular as part of the late Victorian and Edwardian fashion for what was considered "Orientalist" attire, a signifier of relaxed masculinity and worldly leisure enjoyed in domestic settings. Editor: Absolutely. The cap is laden with cultural signifiers. It makes me think of sultans, Ottoman aesthetics, and the romanticized exoticism so pervasive in Western art and design during that period. That dangling tassel almost begs to be toyed with. Curator: Consider also the socio-economic aspect of who would commission or own such an item. This wasn't mass-produced. It represented access, privilege. The artistic styles also hearken back to earlier eras when wealthy patrons would frequently collect luxurious items for private pleasure and relaxation. Editor: Precisely, and the details - those embroidered motifs – they echo ancient symbols of prosperity and comfort, but repurposed through a colonial gaze. It highlights how cultures appropriate and transform imagery, and how those transformations shape perception and desire. Curator: And yet, while appearing almost playfully luxurious, it's an object rooted in historical and power imbalances of the era. How might the average working person have felt viewing this, say in an exhibition or as a sign of another's leisure and privilege? Editor: An excellent point. An object, however beautifully crafted, will still trigger feelings tied to power structures when one considers how many wouldn't even have the basic securities. The artifact morphs into a silent dialogue about hierarchy, doesn’t it? Curator: Precisely. It forces one to reckon with its place in the wider landscape of the time. Editor: Understanding its layers transforms a beautiful piece into a mirror reflecting society itself. Curator: And ultimately prompts necessary critical reflections.

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