Avondjapon van zwarte crêpe c. 1935 - 1939

This evening gown was made from black crepe, by an unknown maker. Crepe is an interesting material: usually silk, wool, or synthetic fiber, it's distinctive for its crinkled or puckered surface. The question is, how did the maker achieve that texture? Typically, crepe gets its character from the weave structure or chemical treatment. This would have been a mechanized process, and in fact, crepe became popular in the 19th century precisely because of industrialization. Its appeal resided in this combination of qualities, both matte and refined. The velvet trim on the skirt and bodice offer a contrast. Crepe fabric was often associated with mourning attire, because of its somber tone. As such, this gown speaks volumes about the social rituals surrounding death, and the way that even grief could be expressed through the latest fashions. The dress presents an intriguing case study in the confluence of industrial production, aesthetic preference, and social symbolism. It reminds us that even the simplest garment can be a complex cultural artifact.