Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Oktober 1807, No. 24 :Fichu à Colerette... 1807
print, engraving
portrait
neoclacissism
old engraving style
decorative-art
dress
engraving
Dimensions: height 200 mm, width 123 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Curator: Elegentia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames. What strikes me immediately about this engraving, created in October 1807, is its exquisite rendering of texture through such fine lines. Look closely at the delicate fabric folds of her dress and the elaborate floral ornamentation. Editor: My first thought is restraint, a certain coolness. The neutral palette contributes, of course, but also the woman's demure posture and averted gaze. It speaks volumes about the performative expectations placed on women, even within elite circles, during this Neoclassical period. Curator: Indeed, though one must also consider the means of production here. The relative inexpensiveness of printmaking made these images accessible, playing a vital role in disseminating trends and driving the textile industry and related material trades. Editor: Precisely. The "luxury" advertised by "Elegantia" wasn't abstract. It hinged upon the labor and exploitation underpinning the material conditions. Who was producing these fashionable items? Under what circumstances? Were women like the one depicted consuming or creating these objects of luxury? Curator: Good points. Focusing on craft and materiality also reminds us to consider what went into creating the image itself—the engraver's skill, the ink and paper used, all components available for analysis. Editor: By the looks of the text, we could dig into issues around literacy and language as it relates to class. What sort of woman is able to read the publication this print comes from? How are dress and class related to power and freedom of expression? The composition of this picture is a cultural expression, both on paper and in practice. Curator: Thank you for the interesting questions that will leave all who consider this engraving much to contemplate. Editor: I appreciate the reminder to question the surface, considering not only beauty but the realities embedded within it.
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