Fashion Study by Deborah Turbeville

Fashion Study c. 1970s

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photography

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portrait

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charcoal drawing

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photography

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charcoal

Dimensions: image: 7.3 × 9.6 cm (2 7/8 × 3 3/4 in.) sheet: 8.6 × 10.8 cm (3 3/8 × 4 1/4 in.)

Copyright: National Gallery of Art: CC0 1.0

Deborah Turbeville made this fashion study with what looks like a camera and some darkroom magic. The image is almost ghostly, the palette is limited to shades of grey and white, it’s like she’s painting with light and shadow, embracing the imperfections and accidents along the way. Look at the surface, the way it’s been handled, there are fingerprints and smudges on the wall! It's almost like she's inviting us to touch the image, to feel the texture and the weight of the moment, rather than erasing any trace of process. It’s raw and unfiltered, more about capturing a feeling than a perfect image. The model is pressing herself against the wall as though trapped, I wonder if this speaks to the way women were often presented in fashion photography at this time? The overall effect reminds me a bit of Francesca Woodman, another artist who was interested in exploring themes of identity and the body through photography. Both artists embraced ambiguity and favored a more intimate and personal approach to image-making, but who knows, maybe it’s just me!

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