Afternoon jacket 1895

This afternoon jacket, made by Augustine Martin & Company, presents a striking silhouette, predominantly in rich, dark teal velvet. The eye is immediately drawn to the exaggerated, puffed sleeves, a bold declaration of shape that contrasts with the fitted bodice. The vertical line of the jacket is emphasized by a central panel of darker velvet, adorned with intricate beadwork that cascades down the garment like frozen vines. The structure of the jacket speaks to a period of elaborate dressmaking, yet there's a tension between the restrictive form and the luxurious, almost decadent use of fabric. This tension can be seen as a reflection of the era’s complex social codes, where clothing served as both a means of expression and a form of confinement. The jacket's visual language challenges conventional notions of utility, existing more as a statement of artifice. It invites us to consider how clothing operates as a sign system, where each element—the color, the texture, the cut—contributes to a larger discourse on identity, status, and taste.