Woman's Changfu (Informal Court Robe) Qing dynasty (1644–1911), late 19th/early 20th century

This informal court robe was made by Manchu artisans out of silk, with supplementary weft patterning and embroidery. The base cloth would have been woven on a drawloom, a complex machine operated by two people, one of whom was dedicated to lifting the correct sequence of threads. The entire surface is covered with meticulously worked floral motifs. Look closely, and you’ll notice the incredible labor involved in creating these intricate patterns; labor which was highly gendered in this period of Chinese history, with women performing much of the handwork. The robe's design, materials, and construction speak volumes about the social hierarchy of the Qing Dynasty. Court robes like this one reflected the wearer's status and rank, while also creating an entire industry of silk production, embroidery, and pattern design. By appreciating the art of making, we can move beyond aesthetic appreciation, towards a deeper understanding of the economic, social, and political dynamics at play.