Fragment (Tunic) by Chimú

Fragment (Tunic) Possibly 1250 - 1470

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weaving, textile

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weaving

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textile

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figuration

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geometric

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indigenous-americas

Dimensions 87 × 108 cm (34 1/4 × 42 1/2 in.)

Editor: This fragment of a tunic, dating back to the Chimú culture between 1250 and 1470, is currently held at The Art Institute of Chicago. Looking at it, I’m struck by how the repeated figures give a sense of community, yet the fragment itself speaks to loss. What can you tell me about the social and cultural context surrounding a piece like this? Curator: That's a great observation. This tunic fragment offers insights into the social and political power structures of the Chimú society. Textile production was a highly valued skill. Who do you think controlled the production and distribution of these textiles, and how might that impact the figures represented? Editor: It’s probably the elites of the Chimú society, right? They would have likely used these textiles to reinforce their authority, and maybe controlled access to the imagery on them. Curator: Exactly. Think about how repetitive imagery like this could serve to solidify a specific cultural narrative or even convey a political message to the masses. This uniformity likely also extended into the workshop—standardization became integral, allowing the textile to have meaning and function beyond basic protection. And consider how the institutional structure, or the hierarchical system, within Chimú society would necessitate skilled artisans to create such pieces. Editor: So, this seemingly simple piece actually tells a complex story about labor, power, and cultural identity? The fragment almost becomes a symbol for broader social forces at play. Curator: Precisely. The state had influence. And we, in turn, influence the viewing. Editor: Wow, I’ll definitely look at textiles differently from now on. Thanks. Curator: And I will remember to consider art as a source of cultural cohesion, not only an asset for trade or cultural pride. Thank you!

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