Panel 1860 - 1880

This is a woven panel by Mathevon et Bouvard, a French firm, made with silk. Silk, with its natural sheen and ability to take dye, lends itself to opulence. The brocade weaving process involves the use of a Jacquard loom, an invention that used punched cards to automate the creation of complex patterns. Look closely, and you’ll see how the technique produces a layered effect, with raised motifs in deep red that stand out against the lighter ground. The pattern, with its symmetrical arrangements of vases, flowers, and scrolling foliage, is typical of the late 19th century, and designed to evoke earlier periods of French regal splendor. But don’t let that fool you. Even though the effect is hand-made, each component in this decorative scheme was mechanically produced. The skilled labor required to set up and operate the Jacquard loom was considerable, a testimony to human ingenuity, but ultimately a harbinger of automation. The weaving process itself is central to understanding this beautiful textile, and its place within histories of labor, class, and artistic production.