Portrait of a Lady in Black and White 1599

Alessandro Allori made this portrait in the late 16th century, using oil paints on canvas. What immediately strikes you is the way the woman’s garments contrast with the relative austerity of the setting. The black fabric of her dress must have been extremely costly; black dye was notoriously difficult to produce in this period. Notice too, the pearls around her neck, the gold embroidery at her waist, and the delicate lace collar. But it's the sleeves that command our attention. The process of weaving or embroidering such fabric was labor-intensive. This tells us about her place in Florentine society, and more generally about the relationship between wealth, labor and consumption in Renaissance Italy. Paying close attention to the materials, the making and the social context, the portrait expands beyond the image, inviting consideration of the economic and cultural values that underpin its creation.