Robe du soir de taffetas noir 1938 - 1939

This is Jean Dessès's "Robe du soir de taffetas noir," a fashion sketch rendered in pencil and watercolor, exploring form and texture. The dark dress against the pale background immediately draws the eye, creating a striking contrast. Dessès plays with the interplay between the figure and the gown, as well as the gown and the page. Note how the dress, constructed from a cascade of layered taffeta, creates a complex interplay of light and shadow. The choice of black taffeta is crucial here. Its reflective quality allows Dessès to model the form and give it volume. The semiotic weight of black, often associated with elegance and formality, reinforces the garment's intended purpose as an evening gown. The sketch destabilizes the traditional boundaries between fashion illustration and fine art. It functions as a design proposal, and a study of form. Consider how Dessès uses line and shading to evoke the dress's tactile quality, the very essence of haute couture. The sketch serves as both a blueprint and an invitation to imagine the dress in motion. The emphasis on texture and form speaks to the broader cultural interest in materiality. The sketch invites ongoing interpretation regarding fashion, representation, and artistic expression.