Vouwaaier met blad van wit tule waarop wit kloskant in florale motieven, montuur van parelmoer c. 1875 - 1900

This fan, made by T. Desmares, features a leaf of white tulle adorned with white bobbin lace in floral motifs, set in a mother-of-pearl frame. The combination of these materials speaks to a world where natural resources, like pearl, are combined with delicate, highly skilled handwork. Note the contrast between the iridescent frame and the intricate lace, a textile that is essentially made of holes, yet creates a substantial visual effect. Bobbin lace making is one of those incredible labor-intensive processes – it’s all about crossing and twisting threads, building up a pattern pin by pin. This fan represents luxury, but also the countless hours of labor that were required to produce it, and the social stratification of access to these kinds of goods. While fans like this were objects of beauty and status, they also represented the complex dynamics of labor, class, and consumption.