Dimensions length 63 cm, length 79 cm
Editor: We’re looking at a “Dolman, made out of a shawl,” created around 1880 to 1885 by an anonymous designer, composed of textile. I’m struck by how something seemingly meant to provide comfort, with that heavy fringe, appears almost theatrical. What story does it tell from your perspective? Curator: This garment speaks volumes about the Victorian era's fascination with transforming the 'exotic' into everyday life. Shawls, particularly paisley shawls from Kashmir or imitations produced in Europe, were highly prized. The decision to dismantle and reconstruct such a valuable item into a dolman – a type of mantle or cape – suggests a confluence of economic factors and changing fashions. It raises questions about who owned this shawl, and what their social standing might have been. Editor: So, its value impacted its transformation? Curator: Precisely. The appropriation of textiles in this manner reflects a broader societal trend of adapting global goods for personal expression, reflecting not only status but also a nuanced engagement with a rapidly globalizing world. Consider how the "exotic" paisley pattern, once exclusive, becomes democratized through mass production and adaptation, losing some of its original cultural significance. Editor: It makes me think about the impact of fast fashion today, the availability of anything influencing creative choice. Curator: An excellent comparison. We must consider the impact of industrialization on the romanticism of its patterns in its context of production. This piece, viewed through a historical lens, invites reflection on how accessibility shapes our relationship with art and cultural heritage, and perhaps reshapes meaning. What do you think now? Editor: I'm really starting to think differently about how fashion, as an everyday tool, communicates and affects culture and its socioeconomics. Curator: Indeed. Objects like this remind us that fashion is never just about clothing, but a complex interplay of history, culture, and identity.
Comments
This dolman is made out of a shawl which may have been woven in Paisley (Scotland). It is a cheaper imitation of the traditional shawls from Kashmir. Together with the hoop skirts large shawls went out of fashion, however around 1880 they were altered into capes and jackets. This dolman is lined with a bright chequered silk.
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