Pauline Markham, from World's Beauties, Series 2 (N27) for Allen & Ginter Cigarettes 1888

This is a chromolithograph of Pauline Markham, from the World's Beauties series, created by Allen & Ginter for their cigarette brand. The composition focuses on a portrait of the actress, framed by a delicate lace head covering. The artist uses soft, pastel colors and gentle gradients to create a sense of ethereal beauty. Markham's gaze drifts upwards, inviting the viewer into a space beyond the immediate image. The chromatic scale is limited, dominated by the muted beige background and soft pinks of her face, offset by the bright white lace. This use of color creates a contrast that highlights the texture and detail of the lace, which, as a signifier, speaks to the era’s cultural codes of femininity and beauty. The print exists as a cultural artifact deeply embedded in the semiotic systems of its time. It functioned not merely as an advertisement, but as a component in the construction and dissemination of ideals related to beauty, celebrity and consumerism. By understanding the formal qualities of this print, we can reveal layers of meaning and ideological functions.