fibre-art, weaving, textile
fibre-art
weaving
textile
abstraction
monochrome
Dimensions width 14 cm, length 19 cm, height 2 cm
Curator: Looking at "Metrage lint van zwart gaas," or "Length of Black Gauze Ribbon," dating to around 1900 and held in the Rijksmuseum, my first thought is the power dynamics implied by such finery during that era. Editor: It's strikingly simple. The severe monochrome, the visible weave… It speaks of raw materials and the repetitive actions required to produce this. What was it for? Curator: Mourning, most likely. Black gauze was quintessential in Victorian and Edwardian mourning attire. The rise of industrial textile production made materials like this increasingly accessible, impacting social displays of grief and status. Editor: That makes the method of production more pointed. We should look closely at the weave, it's a basic construction, suggesting a wider availability—mass consumption driven by social demands, like funerals. Curator: Exactly! Fashion, even somber fashion like mourning wear, becomes increasingly driven by accessible production. Its somber nature makes it an almost architectural element. Think of how black fabric draped homes or individuals mourning. Editor: A kind of industrialization of mourning. You've got a point. There's an almost haunting tension, the weave as a literal grid trapping or obscuring the emotions behind it. A powerful connection to materiality, labor, and the performance of grief. Curator: And mass grief became more pronounced, because of rising populations and shifting ideas of death! "Metrage lint van zwart gaas" gives an idea of how grief became formalized. Editor: Absolutely. Something seemingly as minor as ribbon gives powerful evidence of social behavior being changed by how quickly grief could become industrialised. Curator: Considering all aspects around the role and perception of mourning…I understand better its symbolic role. Editor: The convergence of form, material, and context reveals something deeply impactful. Thank you, indeed.
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