Portret van een vrouw c. 1854 - 1855

Editor: Here we have "Portret van een vrouw", or "Portrait of a Woman", a gelatin-silver print dating to around 1854-1855 by Eduard Isaac Asser, held at the Rijksmuseum. The texture of her dress is so rich, almost velvety, but it feels heavy too. What stands out to you in this photograph? Curator: I’m drawn to the sheer labor embedded in creating this image. Think about the time, resources, and skill necessary. From the silver used in the gelatin print process, to the elaborate construction of her clothing. Each layer of her skirt represents hours of work for someone. How does the rise of photography democratize representation versus painted portraiture, and what labor shifts accompany that? Editor: So you're focusing on the social implications, as well as the process. I see that. Was photography seen as "lesser" than painting at this time? Curator: Exactly! We have to consider photography's challenge to painting's established dominance. Was it viewed as simply a mechanical reproduction, lacking the artistic skill invested in a painting? Or did it open up new avenues for artistic expression, changing who could have their image captured? The materiality of the photograph – the paper, the silver, the chemical processes – become central to its value, rather than just its likeness. Editor: I hadn't thought about the materials themselves conveying value. The fact that even early photography was quite laborious… Curator: And think about consumption. The sitter's access to leisure, the photographer’s business… this photograph represents participation in a growing culture of consumption and visual representation. What did owning a photograph like this signify about one's social status and engagement with modernity? Editor: That's really shifted my perspective. It's more than just a portrait, it's an object deeply rooted in its time, the materials themselves speak to industrial advancements. Curator: Precisely! Focusing on materials, production and consumption unlocks so much historical and social meaning.