Silk Embroidered Suspenders by Ann Gene Buckley

Silk Embroidered Suspenders c. 1936

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drawing, paper, watercolor

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drawing

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paper

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watercolor

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coloured pencil

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geometric

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watercolour illustration

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decorative-art

Dimensions: overall: 35.7 x 28 cm (14 1/16 x 11 in.)

Copyright: National Gallery of Art: CC0 1.0

Curator: Well, the first thing I notice is a rather… restrained joy. Editor: Exactly. We’re looking at a watercolor and colored pencil drawing from around 1936 titled "Silk Embroidered Suspenders", created by Ann Gene Buckley. The drawing presents what appears to be a design for suspenders, and a section is displayed again on the right to show detail. The pattern features winding botanical motifs and floral ornamentation. It has that decorative arts flavor. Curator: Decorative yes, but practical? I mean, silk embroidered suspenders scream, "Look at me! I'm trying very hard." But then the colours are also a little somber. It's almost bashful showiness. Like a shy peacock. Editor: The choice of colour certainly influences the aesthetic mood. The darker brown grounds, accented with pink, yellow and lavender florals, create a structured and somewhat restrained composition. And then a yellow and light blue contrast highlight the forms against a lighter backdrop, producing a clear structure and readability. Curator: Which begs the question – who exactly was Buckley designing for? Because, for me, there’s also a definite tension in the geometric linearity of the suspender form and the wildly romantic floral design. Is she poking fun, maybe subverting the concept of masculine attire with feminine embellishments? Editor: I can see that tension between structure and decoration you mentioned. She certainly brings a softening elegance to what would typically be considered masculine functional ware. She refines the geometric severity into soft curving botanical ornament, which really invites you in, doesn’t it? Curator: It does! Like being invited to a tea party, but the tea is laced with something a little stronger than chamomile. The geometry wants to impose rules, and the flowers seem intent on discreetly breaking them. Overall, it is a fabulous rendering with very considered artistry. Editor: A fascinating piece. A testament to how design can encapsulate complexity and provoke thought on something as apparently banal as silk embroidered suspenders.

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